Wednesday, November 25, 2009

Athens















Even over rooftops and between buildings, not a bad view to wake up to from your hotel room.
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Via Blackberry

Wednesday, November 18, 2009

Bosphorus















View looking from the summer palace an Ottoman Sultan built for his sister c.1857 on the Asia side of the Bosphorus. This is looking back towards the central part of Istanbul that's on the other side of the bridge. Asia is on the left shore and Europe on the right. Crossed the bridge this morning making it the first time I've driven between continents. You can see all the ships in the picture transiting the Bosphorus between the Mediterranean and Black Sea. One of the busiest waterways in the world.

We rented the palace for me to host a dinner tonight for 130 clients in the area. The 2nd picture is of the set up for the evening. Pretty cool being able to have a selection of palaces to choose from.















TWG
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Via Blackberry














The tallest building in the world is due to officially open in January. It is unbelievably tall.
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Via Blackberry

Originally sent November 15, 2009

Am I losing it















No kidding. This is on my train tonight.
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Via Blackberry

Originally sent November 13, 2009

Hamburg















Picture shows the spire of St. Nikolai Lutheran Church completed in 1874, which is all that remains of the church after the Allied bombing of July 1945. After the TV tower here it is still the 2nd highest structure in Hamburg.
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Via Blackberry

Originally sent October 27, 2009

Venice Day-4: Acqua Alta















Well the rains finally came. But rather than the rain being an issue, the wind associated with the front pushed the Adriatic into the lagoon an extra couple feet at high tide and we experienced an actual Acqua Alta (literally "water high") today.

We started out this morning in Dorsoduro to visit the Scuola Dei Carmini, where Lacey's favorite artist, Tiepolo, (learned about from a "Magic Treehouse" book) painted a ceiling in the 16th century. Unfortunately, they decided to open several hours later than usual (this IS Italy), so had to go with Plan B and visit the Doge's Palace first.

When we got back to Piazza San Marco we could see the lagoon waters were already right up to the top of the wall with 2 hours remaining to high tide. Workers were already setting up the boardwalks in anticipation of an Acqua Alta. Meanwhile, we ducked out of the weather into the palace.

This place is yet another opportunity for sensory overload. It is huge and way over the top in gold leaf and renaissance paintings on just about every flat surface. We lost count after 30 rooms. A lot like Versaille in that there are no furnishings in the place - Napoleon made off with most of it. Much to the kids' satisfaction we did get to walk across the Bridge of Sighs to the prison.

After giving up on listening to every detail of the audio guide after 3 hours we finally finished up in the palace to head back to Dorsoduro. When we got to the exit we were greeted by the entire Piazza San Marco under solid water (see pic). Before leaving home we received a good tip to bring the Wellies along given the time of year. Good use was made of these today. You can see everyone up on the board walks. In the middle of the square there was a good foot of water. With a whole city living with canals and no streets, you see a lot of unique things afloat: ambulances, the fire brigade, hearses, refrigerated barges for food, etc. In the square you also have police in waders at the intersections of the boardwalks directing all the foot traffic to keep people moving. Once out of the square we had to go weaving through the rabbit warren of alleys to find a non-flooded route to Dorsoduro. Actually, kinda fun. By the time we got back to the Scuola the sun was back out and the water was retreating quickly. An hour later when we got back to the Vaporeto landing on the Grand Canal they were already stacking the boardwalk.

After our last dinner tonight we made one more trek via a new exploratory route across to Piazza San Marco. We realized that here we were, feeling our way through neighborhoods we'd never been to before, had no idea exactly what was there, in the dark, and feeling perfectly safe and at ease. You have to love this place. When we got to the piazza it was all lit up for the night and dry again. Music also filled the air from an orchestra serenading one of the restaurants. Very pretty.

Found out tonight that public transit is all on strike tomorrow, which will make it interesting getting to the airport. When I asked the hotel for suggestions on this their first was to simply stay an extra day. Tempting, very tempting.

TWG
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Via Blackberry

Originally sent October 22, 2009

Venice Day-3: Atmospheric Overload















Well the weather cooperated after all by staying dry until this evening. Headed across to the north end of the lagoon this morning on a 45min boat ride to the island of Burano. This is much smaller than Murano (you canwalk across the whole thing in 10 min.) and a whole different environment from Venice. It's a sleepy little town that was just starting to wake up when we landed at 10:30 (my kind of people). The houses line the small canals and are all manner of bright colors (see picture). A very cheerful place and dripping with atmosphere. The main attraction here is that Burano is the lace capital of the world, with the specialty being needle lace. Lacey loved it because "they sell Me without a Y". One of the shops has a huge display of very antique lace - some from Napoleon, some from 15-1600's. Incredible. Watched a lady doing needle lace for awhile. One piece about 14in in diameter takes 7 women about a month to do.

Had a look at their church with the 200ft bell tower that's leaning over at a crazy angle (several like this around Venice given the 4 ft of subsidence over the last century), ate too much lunch as usual, had yet another Michigan Grad ('60) yell Go-Blue! at Miranda with her Michigan sweatshirt on, then headed back to Venice.

With the weather closing in we had one more outdoor thing to do and that was a gondola ride so that mom wouldn't disown me. So after picking a gondola parked near the hotel, and getting through the 30 second business negotiation....

Me: "How much?"
Cool Gondolier Guy: "80 Euros"

Me: "How about 70?"
Gondolier Guy: "How about 80?"

Me: "How long?"
Boat Guy: "30-40 min"

Me: "Gee, how about 55 min. for that price?"
Pirate: "How about 30-40 min?,

Me: "Since we want to go towards Dorsodura how about you go that direction
and drop us off after 40 min instead of coming back here"
Mafioso: "How about 100 Euro and I not make-a you swim?"

Shipowners are all the same.















Well, it felt like that, but it was indeed 80 Euros for 30 min. It was actually plenty long enough (especially if you do the math, which is too depressing) and quite pleasant. We went out onto the Grand Canal for just a couple minutes right by the Rialto Bridge, then spent the rest of the time on the small internal canals. He took us by Marco Polo's house. Every time we went under a bridge the tourists (we are NOT tourists, we're independent travelers and I have the empty wallet to prove it) were taking our picture (so not just enjoying the atmosphere, but BEING the atmosphere). We all smiled and waved. When we passed other gondolas the ladies all smiled at each other thinking "isn't this the most romantic thing ever". We guys also smiled a each other thinking "Hey look! Another schmuck!" And all doing the calculations over being taken to the cleaners for this boat ride, but wondering how we are going to cash in the points scored.

Gondola maneuvering is fantastic and the best part was the total silence. The gondola belongs to the gondolier. He then belongs to a union. I'm not going to explore the business structure beyond that. His boat was beautiful (you can see just a bit in the attached). Built in 1983 it is 36 ft long, 4-1/2 beam and only 700 lbs. Stepping into it was like a big black canoe. The girls wanted to go right back and do it again. Sorry, this ain't Hershey Park.

Finished off the day with a walk through the Opera House, appropriately named the Phoenix Theater, as it has now burned down 3 separate times over the last 200 years, most recently in 1996. The restoration was to bring it back exactly as it was. It took 7 years and is impossible to describe just how spectacular it is. It seats 1078 in 5 tiers + main floor. It is ornate beyond belief. Thanks to Tami for that heads-up as, from the outside, it is totally innocuous and tucked away amongst houses and shops. No grand square or approach, just alley ways to get to it. I'm sure most people walk right by it.

1-1/2 days to go. The hole in my pocket is starting to look like a black hole.

TWG
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Via Blackberry

Originally sent October 21, 2009

Venice Days 1 & 2















Landed in Venice about 1pm on the mainland on Monday and took a taxi from there across the causeway to Piazzale Roma, the only place where cars have access to the island. From there it was a short walk to the landing stage for the Vaporeto (ferries), another 15 min to the stop closest to our hotel, and a 10min walk from there. We were in the hotel just over an hour after landing. We dumped the bags and hit the streets as the weather was perfect and Wed-Fri. looks bad. Grabbed a bite to eat (luckily avoiding the McD's that we were amazed to find right at the boat landing). The attached pic is looking up the Grand Canal from the top of the Rialto Bridge.

Made our way from there across to Piazza San Marco. Spent an hour in San Marco Basilica. Over 400,000 square feet of mosaic covering everything top to bottom. Floor mosaics that would make incredible quilt patterns and gold tiling the ceilings/domes. With late afternoon sun shining through the windows onto the gold, the otherwise dark Byzantine nave was spectacular.

Walked around the Doge's Palace so Lacey could see the Bridge of Sighs (disappointingly covered in scaffolding that was in turn covered in fashion advertising). Then up to the top of the bell tower to finish things off at sunset.

The comment of the day - if not the decade - was from Lacey. We were walking by a clock tower just as it gonged 2 o'clock. She asked "what was that for". I said it was chiming 2 o'clock. She gave me a very confused look then hit me with "but I thought Venice was timeless!"

Tuesday I had to meet with a shipowner for the morning, so Kim and the girls visited the Rialto Market and saw all manner of fish and produce fresh off the boats. We all spent the afternoon across the lagoon on Murano, famous for its glass works. Watched a team of 4 workers in a coordinated blur of shaping glass for a chandelier. Then proceeded to buy enough glass that my knuckles we scrapping pavement by the time we lugged it back to the hotel. Happy to report that the glass museum that Roger Moore and foe destroyed in "Moonraker" is still in one piece.

Finished off the day with too much food again. Shock of the day was Lacey deciding she likes calamari and scampi.

TWG
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Via Blackberry

Originally sent October 20, 2009

Name That River















Any guesses? That's a canal in the foreground emptying into the river
under the bridge.
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Via Blackberry

Originally sent October 8, 2009

Copenhagen















Looking north. My favorite spiral steeple on the right and the new opera house in the center by the water. You can see Sweden on the horizon.
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Via Blackberry

Originally sent October 7, 2009

Vesuvius















A little closer and clearer today. Visited one of our shipowners whose office is right up on the slopes of the volcano in a villa that ought to be a museum. There are lava bombs sticking 15ft out of the lawn. Very cool - right up to the next eruption.
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Via Blackberry

Originally sent October 1, 2009

Flying Low















Roma to Napoli in 75 min. and no security check. I love the EuroStar.
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Via Blackberry

Originally sent September 30, 2009

Napoli















Hot day in Naples. So, while I could see Vesuvius, it was so hazy that a picture only looked like smudge. Oh well, will be back in Naples tomorrow night and Thursday so will try again.

Good day of meetings, but had to re-adjust to Napolitano time. E.g., for a 2pm meeting you sit in the office chain drinking espresso (I lost count after 5 as my brain can't concentrate on any numbers higher than 2 right now with all the caffeine), then at 2pm you decide it's time to leave for the 2pm meeting, then drive like total maniacs to try to make the 2pm meeting on time with the 2 million others trying to do the same thing. Think of NY taxis on too much caffeine where traffic signals are simply something to gesticulate about. The guys I'm with from Genoa refuse to drive here.

Anyway, since I failed on a picture of redeeming natural beauty, attached find something of infinitely more practical value. One of our owners is sufficiently cost conscious (I.e., "tight") that he likes to encourage people to use the stairs rather than pay for the electricity to run the elevator. So the enclosed picture is of the coin drop in the cab where you have to pay 10 cents to get the thing to move. But you also have to ensure that you poll everyone else onboard to make sure no one wants to get off on a lower floor first as you have to drop another 10c to get to the next floor. Luckily that's not usually a problem as the cab is only rated for 3 persons, so you only have to deal with 5 others onboard.

Have to say this is the only place on the planet I've seen this contraption.

Off to Rome.

TWG
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Via Blackberry

Originally sent September 29, 2009

The Big and the Little of it















We're all contemplating how Josh will fit, though we did get a sun roof.

2004 1600cc Mini Cooper

I made the mistake of letting Kim try it.
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Via Blackberry

Originally sent August 22, 2009

Intro

For the past couple months, my Father-in-Law has been keeping the family up-to-date on where he's traveled and what he's seeing by sending a picture and brief description from his Blackberry. They've been supremely interesting for me, so I thought we'd set up a blog and see what kind of travel diary emerges.